The pictures all belong to Adam Ondra / copyright Adam Ondra !!

Check out this interview we made with Adam Ondra in 2006 :

Adam Ondra was born the 5th February 1993 in the Czech Republic. This young climbing wonder became very quickly popular and known for all his hard climbs.

In December 2004 he did his 1st 8c (“Mascherina” in Grotta dell’ Areonauta). The 29th December 2005 he set a record by being the youngest climber (12) to do an 8c+ graded route with “Alien Carnage” in Castillon / France.

And the most impressive : the 11th November 2006 he managed, as the youngest climber ever (13), to redpoint a route graded 9a named “Martin Krpan” in Misja Pec / Slovenia! He did approximately 20 8c routes, 6 routes graded 8c+, 1 9a and a lot more … climbing.lu had the chance to make a short interview with him after he did his 1st 9a!

Enjoy …

1. How did you discover climbing? How old were you then?

Since I was a little child I always accompanied my parents to the rocks. I was 4 the first time I tried to climb. When I was 6 I went climbing more often.

2. How many times do you go climbing a week?

4 to 5 times a week!

3. Do you still go to school or just live from climbing?

I still go to school and I want to continue going to school. Later I would like to go to college.

4. The 11th November 2006 you did “Martin Krpan (9a)” in Misja Pec (Slovenia) which makes you the youngest climber ever to be able to redpoint such a high grade. CONGRATULATIONS for that! Did you prepare yourself MENTALLY before doing “Martin Krpan” (any meditation, breathing exercices or finding your inner peace and concentration)?

Thanks! I just tried to be concentrated!

5. What thoughts were running through your head a few seconds before you started the final go in that route?

I wasn’t sure if it was the right time, if it wasn’t too early to climb.

6. Please describe your feelings you had after your success! Did you scream of joy and make a party?

I am really happy that I do not need to climb it again. I did not celebrate it too much.

7. Any special PHYSICAL training for doing this 9a route? How is it possible for a 13-year-old to climb as hard as you?

I just climbed wheels on a boulder wall to train my endurance. I don’t really know how this is possible for a 13-year-old. Maybe it is God who gave me this big present.

8. What is your opinion about the saying “… it’s all in your mind !”?

Yes, this is definitely true!

9. Do you think that in climbing the limit of the possible is reached at 9b?

No. I believe that grades will go higher, but very slowly.

10. Do you often need to climb other sequences in routes because of your height? Is being small an excuse for not succeeding in a route?

Yes, very often I have to climb other sequences in routes. No, being small is not an excuse. But sometimes some moves are just impossible.

11. People were talking a lot on 8a.nu about your 9a ascent! What do you think about all those discussions on 8a.nu about how someone did a route and if it was right or wrong and all those silly discussions about grading?

Well, I think they are not so silly. There are only two possibilities: done and not done.

12. Do you also go bouldering sometimes?

Yes, but not very often. Only when I train I do a lot of bouldering!

13. What is your opinion about competition climbing? Do you compete?

It is quite good, but I don’t like sitting in the isolation room. And competitors of world cups must be crazy! To go every week-end somewhere on competitions …

14. As you are often in the Frankenjura (Germany), what is for you so special about those rocks?

It is the best place to climb during summer. Most of the rocks are in the woods, so there is shade which is cool during really hot summer days.

15. Some small questions with short answers:

- What is your favorite climbing spot?

Sandonno, Frankenjura and Terradets.

- What is your favorite food and drink?

Pizza and black currant juice.

- What is your favorite music?

Rammstein.

- Do you have any other hobbies besides climbing?

Snowboarding.

- Do you travel a lot?

Yes, during summer I go every weekend to the Frankenjura.

Thank you very much for this interview !

The pictures all belong to Adam Ondra / copyright Adam Ondra !!